This long aged installment in the Appleton Hearts series is deep, fruity, and flavorful, but avoids being over oaked even after 29 years in a cask.

Let’s talk about 1993: the world trade center was bombed, Nelson Mandela won a Nobel Peace Prize, and Appleton Estate laid down a couple of rum casks that, 29 years later, would join the Appleton Hearts Collection. At 29 years that entry is the second oldest to date in the Hearts lineup, after only the 37 year old 1984 which, while lauded, I think is generally accepted was a bit over-oaked. Given that the best Hearts installments marry intense Jamaican fruitiness with deep, rich, oaky age, the stakes of this review are clear: were the final couple years spent in a cask an asset or a liability for 1993?

We measured a density of 0.904g/cc and a refractive index of 1.3638, indicating no additives (duh) though as always I’m a bit befuddled by the fact they don’t tout “no additives” anywhere on the label—I suppose at this price point ($299, oof) and from this line, you’re just supposed to know.

On the nose it comes at you fast; 29 years may have mellowed some aspects of its character, but its still a 100% pot still rum, and touts a strong ester-forward nose of acetone, overripe pineapple, a touch of peach, and a ton of dusty oak. Compared to some of it’s younger siblings, it’s actually a little less obviously warm on the nose, and has much less banana to it. On the palate there’s a ton of evolution: the initial ethanol/acetone hit gives way to a plethora of fruity charred pineapple, fig, banana (not much but its there), and lychee-adjacent mangosteen, which in turn passes the baton to a heavy spice medley of ginger and vanilla. The finish is strong and adds some allspice and anise to the mix, with a touch of satisfying oaky bitterness.

In our blind taste test we thought it was incredible both as a neat sipper (9.0/10) and mixed into a daiquiri (9.2/10).

I obviously think this rum is insanely good, but it’s worth calling out this rum is clearly not for everyone: if Smith and Cross is “too funky” for you, then dropping $299 on this makes no sense at all. Additionally if you like oak too much you might be better off splurging on one of the older Foursquare ECS releases, and at the same time if you don’t care for oak much at all (you lucky duck) then you have much better, more affordable options to get your Jamaican ester-fix. But the fact that this is not a top pick for oak-loving carpenters is an implicit acknowledgement that it passes the test set up for it: it is not over oaked. It is oaky, and tannic, and deep, but all of that is in balance with it’s brighter, fruitier notes, and in between those two currents is space for a ton of complexity. “What happens to Jamaican Pot Still rum after 29 years in a cask?” is a question few rums can answer as eloquently or deliciously as Appleton Hearts 1993.

The Superficial: Standard Habitation Velier fare. Everything is thoughtful and quality, from the large block of informative text, to the cute illustration of the still, to the classic flask-like bottle shape and functional stopper.

Tags:  Appleton | Jamaica | Limited Release | Molasses | Pot Still