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Appleton Estate Hearts Collection 2003

Appleton Estate Hearts Collection 2003

Appleton Estate Hearts Collection 2003

8.9/10

8.9/10

Neat Rating

9.1/10

Mixer Rating

Poor

Value at $215.00

For being one of the most identifiable Jamaican distilleries, Appleton Estate is a bit of a poor exemplar of Jamaican rum. Everything that comes out of Appleton is high quality and pleasant to drink, but their core range is decidedly un-funky. Folks will hem and haw about whether the 8 year has a bit more fruitiness to it than the 12 year, but in the grand scheme of things they’re all low-proof pot-column blends that are delicious but not super exciting. That may be the very reason they’re great entry points for new rum drinkers—Appleton 12 is regularly recommended as a “great place to start” for those new to the category.

This is the context I had when I first tried Appleton Estate Hearts Collection 2003, an 18 year old 100% pot still rum bottled at 63% ABV, with a label touting 688 g/HLAA of congeners (not specifically esters). It’s such a departure from their standard offerings, both in still makeup and in bottling proof, that I went in a bit skeptical: if Appleton spends all its time perfecting the approachable 12 or cranking out the cocktail workhorse Signature, what do they know about high proof, long aged pot still expressions? While I can’t speak to where their knowledge came from, I can say they know a lot.

We measured a density of 0.902g/cc and a refractive index of 1.3625, indicating no added sugar (duh).

On the nose it’s pretty clear you’re dealing with something special. With so few examples of high ester expressions from Appleton, my first instinct is to compare to other Jamaican distilleries. It’s not quite as warm as Worthy Park, and while it may be closer to a Hampden profile it really reminds me of Long Pond more than anything else. Dried tropical fruit and berries, banana bread, and oak are the first dominant notes, but if you continue nosing there’s some coconut, chocolate, and orange rind. You may also get a whiff of an old leather bound book. On the palate the strong berry note carries through (mostly blueberries and raspberries), along with some really well integrated oak, allspice, coconut, caramel, and banana. There’s also a licorice note that I (as someone who generally doesn’t care fore anise) find weirdly compelling. Unsurprisingly the finish is strong, and really pleasant: cinnamon, allspice, leather and stewed fruit.

In our blind taste test it was great as a neat sipper (8.7/10) and incredible mixed into a daiquiri (9.1/10). Compared to the more recent Appleton Hearts releases (2002 and 1993) the 2003 leaned a little deeper into the chocolatey, baked good direction. If I’m really splitting hairs I might be forced to say under threat of perjury that the more recent 2002 and 1993 may offer slightly more transcendent experiences (each for different reasons), but while I still have a glass of 2003 in my snifter I’ll just meditate upon the fact that this is insanely tasty.

The Superficial: While the Appleton Hearts line has the basic outline of a limited Velier release, it looks really good and has its own personality. The label manages to be minimalist and unbusy, while still managing to pack a lot of great information. All the type faces are immaculate. The wooden top and synthetic cork stopper are standard, but quality.

Minimum Age

18 years

ABV

63%

Volume

700mL

Refractometer

Price Acquired

$215.00
Neat Rating: 8.9
Mixer Rating:9.1
Presentation Rating:9.0
Personal Rating:9.0

Overall Rating:

8.9/10
Rating Notes:
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Hampden Great House 2022

Hampden Great House 2022

Hampden Great House 2022

8.1/10

8.1/10

Neat Rating

9.3/10

Mixer Rating

Poor

Value at $139.00

Started in 2019 with annual releases since, 2022 is the Hampden Great House line’s fourth member. It’s a very flavorful, funky molasses based pot still rum bottled at 55% ABV, and while we don’t actually know that much about it (age, etc), Hampden has said the 2022 is “a blend of medium and high ester marks, revealing a lively and intense profile that lingers on endlessly with white fruits and floral notes.” According to a Memphis Rum Club review it’s specifically 73.5% HGML and 26.5% LFCH (Hampden’s 3rd and 7th highest ester marques respectively).

We measured a density of 0.915g/cc and a refractive index of 1.3602, indicating no added sugar (duh) though interestingly there’s no “no additives” label on the bottle.

If you’re familiar with Hampden and the Great House line the nose won’t be too surprising; if not: buckle up. Before any particular note you notice how much aroma it’s generating for it’s relatively modest 55% ABV. It’s ester-y, with overripe banana, pineapple, and a meaningful whiff of apple cider vinegar. If you linger on the nose you might get a bit of something cask-y, but it’s very clearly playing a supporting role. The palate is intense; it’s the kind of palate that makes you think “Why was I calling other rums fruity? This is actually fruity!” The note that sticks out for me is berry: mostly blueberry but a bit of blackberry as well. The banana and pineapple stick around, and then of course things get a bit weird: there are some vegetal notes that first feel celery-adjacent, but begin to tend a bit brine-y seaweed. The finish is solid and decently strong, but compared to the nose and palate it’s comparative mild; a lot of the strong back notes you’d expect from heavy cask influence aren’t there, lending credibility to the theory this is an overall young rum. The finish that is there works well with its overall profile: fruity, tangy, funky, and then a touch of that “I just had a Port Mourant and now my breath smells bad” note.

In our blind taste test we thought it was great as a neat sipper (8.2/10) and down right incredible as a mixer (9.3/10). Normally when a pricy limited release bottle gets a high mixer score my response is “obviously, it’s a good rum, and it’s not hard to taste good mixed with lime juice and sugar”. But Great House 2022 scored pretty well as a neat sipper, and it scored really well as a mixer. That along with the fact that it’s usually expensive but not crazy expensive leads me to consider this might be an ideal special occasion cocktail constituent for recipes that call for a funk-forward aged Jamaican. This case is bolstered by the fact that (for me) the 2022 is really at the upper limit intensity-wise of what’s pleasant to sip neat, and near the upper limit of the Great House line itself: for reference the primary marque in 2023 is LROK which ester content is between 200 and 400 gr/HLPA, compared with the HGML in 2022 which clocks in between 100 and 1100 gr/HLPA. I do enjoy it neat, but it’s an aggressive experience. If you’re always trying to crank the ester dial up to eleven, this is a really well executed expression that won’t disappoint.

 

The Superficial: The Great House bottles are classy; from year to year the design remains pretty consistent, just switched to a different color, which gives a nice sense of cohesion. There’s remarkably little information on the bottle (shockingly, this one get a 5.6/10 for transparency), and there isn’t a lot about this bottle that is exciting, but there’s nothing in the bottle that stands in the way of this expression feeling really special.

Minimum Age

0 years

ABV

55%

Volume

750mL

Refractometer

Price Acquired

$139.00
Neat Rating: 8.1
Mixer Rating:9.3
Presentation Rating:8.0
Personal Rating:8.0

Overall Rating:

8.1/10
Rating Notes:
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Habitation Velier Hampden 2010 LROK

Habitation Velier Hampden 2010 LROK

Habitation Velier Hampden 2010 LROK

8.6/10

8.7/10

Neat Rating

8.0/10

Mixer Rating

Poor

Value at $311.00

This 2010 installment in the Habitation Velier series in a molasses based pot still rum from Hampden out of Jamaica. It was tropically aged for 6 years (leading to an angel’s share of > 40%) before being bottled at 67% ABV. It clocks in 375 grams of esters per hlAA (the bottle says “375 gr/laa” though I’m pretty sure that has to be a typo, because that would be,,,, really deadly?), a bit more than double the ester level of Smith and Cross.

We measured a density of 0.891g/cc and a refractive index of 1.3627, indicating no additives (duh) and agreeing with the bottle’s low key “Sugar free” label.

Depending on how long it’s been sitting out, the first note on the nose is either ester, overripe banana, or pineapple, with the other two not far behind. A repeated nosing gives a faint whiff of sweet balsamic vinegar, chocolate, or blueberry. On the palate the banana stands out a bit more, followed by some spice and vanilla. The pineapple is still there, and then back of the palate is rounded out by pepper, ginger, and tea. But you can’t spend too long contemplating those guys because the finish arrives early and leaves late: there’s some cinnamon and banana, along with a light bitterness. For it’s modest 6 years it really verges on “licking an oak plank” levels of astringency at the end.

In our blind taste test we thought it was great as a neat sipper (8.6/10) and great-but-not-quite-as-great mixed in a drink (8.0/10)—the tannic end seems to make it not the best team player.

Habitation Velier releases excel at letting the underlying distilate shine through, and so evaluating the 2010 LROK in many ways feels equivalent to evaluating the LROK marque itself. In Hampden’s lineup of marques LROK comes right before HLCF, and according to the information sheet included with their Eight Marks collection, “HLCF can be considered the threshold for higher ester profiles.” By extension, that kind of makes LROK the highest ester marque that isn’t high ester (by their standards at least). And that’s a niche that it really crushes. Don’t get me wrong: I’m just as interested in having my entire face dissolved by a bottle of Great House as the next rum nerd, but that’s an intense, totalizing experience that demands 100% of my attention. LROK on the other hand is still super interesting and complex, but also just really pleasant, and I don’t always need my rum to be an exercise in building character.

The superficial: A classic Habitation Velier bottling: tons of information, an adorable sill illustration, and a shape that’s satisfying to hold and compact to store. The wooden top and synthetic cork are utilitarian, but overall a really pleasing bottle to have on the shelf.

Minimum Age

6 years

ABV

67%

Volume

700mL

Refractometer

Price Acquired

$311.00
Neat Rating: 8.7
Mixer Rating:8.0
Presentation Rating:9.0
Personal Rating:8.5

Overall Rating:

8.6/10
Rating Notes: Confession: I spent too much on this rum. Like, way too much. I picked it up early in my rum buying career, and didn't fully understand how the primary and secondary markets worked, or what I really valued. So this rum gets a "poor" value for money rating, but only because I was silly (though to be fair, to buy a bottle now, you'd probably have to be a bit silly too).
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Habitation Velier Forsyths WP 2005

Habitation Velier Forsyths WP 2005

Habitation Velier Forsyths WP 2005

8.9/10

8.7/10

Neat Rating

9.0/10

Mixer Rating

Okay

Value at $105.00

Coming from Velier’s Habitation line, the Forsyths WP 2005 is a molasses based pot still rum distilled in 2005, and aged for 10 years until it was bottled in 2015. If there’s any single indicator that Habitation Velier is product line ahead of of its time, I would argue that its the fact that this high quality, long aged WPL rum was released a year before the Worthy Park Single Estate 2006 bottling.

We measured a density of .910g/cc and a refractive index of 1.3609, indicating no additives (duh) and agreeing with the label’s proud “Sugar free” label.

On the nose there’s plenty of ripe and overripe banana and pineapple, which is followed up by an oak note that is subtle at first but crescendos into a really pleasant and well integrated main player, rounding out with some sawdust and vanilla. There’s some darker dried fruit on the palate, and while the banana and pineapple both stick around the pineapple is a bit stronger. Some brown sugar and allspice notes join the chat. The finish is long, strong and satisfying, indexing mostly on leather and a sampling of baking spice—then there’s a distinct reemergence of vanilla on the tail end.

In our blind taste test we thought it was a great neat sipper (8.5/10) and incredible mixed in one of the classier daiquiris of my life (9/10). A relevant point of comparison is Worthy Park Single Estate 2006 which is, frankly, in most ways really similar to the HV WP 2005. They’re both delicious and excellent specimens of a Worthy Park profile, but if anything I’d say the 2005 Habitation Velier is a bit more dynamic: there are a few more unexpected turns on the palate and finish, and really leaves you wanting to go back for another sip to dig in deeper.

The superficial: As a rum nerd I have a massive soft spot for the Habitation Velier bottle designs. It’s hard to know what this bottle is more proud of: its stylized illustration of the Forsyths Still, or it’s litany of interesting details about the rum’s pedigree. I can’t quite decide either, but I know that as a whole package it works for me. The wide design of the bottle is not only a nice distinctive flourish, but also makes it easier to store several in a row. The wooden cap and synthetic cork stopper are modest by limited-release standards, but feel nice and get the job done.

Minimum Age

10 years

ABV

57.8%

Volume

750mL

Refractometer

Price Acquired

$105.00
Neat Rating: 8.7
Mixer Rating:9.0
Presentation Rating:9
Personal Rating:9

Overall Rating:

8.9/10
Rating Notes:
Tags:  
Worthy Park Single Estate 2006

Worthy Park Single Estate 2006

Worthy Park Single Estate 2006

8.5/10

8.5/10

Neat Rating

8.7/10

Mixer Rating

Okay

Value at $149.00

Worthy Park’s Single Estate 2006 is a molasses based, pot still rum with equal parts character an dignity. Tropically aged for 12 years in ex-bourbon casks an bottled at a generous 56% ABV, on paper this rum looks great; historically Worthy Park has had a lot of fans that felt underserved by the ubiquitous, pedestrian Rum-Bar line, and this vintage expression bottled in 2018 seemed to be a sort of public statement that Worthy Park was interested in doing some fan-service.

We measured a density of 0.916g/cc and a refractive index of 1.360 indicating no added sugar, agreeing with the back of the bottle’s claim that bottling this rum “without any additives gives you an authentic representation of Jamaican Rum from the Worthy Park Estate”.

On the nose it’s striking how strong it smells without having any overly abrasive or harsh notes; the first note is a deep rich oak that tends almost towards a mahogany, but then overripe bananas and dried cherries join in to dominate. Then there’s some strong berries (mostly blue), sawdust, dried apples, and a bit of almost-toasted brown sugar. On the palate the banana carries through but gives way to deeper leather, oak, and spice notes; our spice profile has the usual suspects: cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, but also a distinct spot of anise. The back end shows off a compelling menagerie of pineapple, a sort of medicinal note, and some apple. The finish is no joke: a serious hit of sawdusty oak, ginger, and some of that dried cherry kicked us off; strong and satisfying.

In our blind taste test we though it was great sipped neat (8.4/10) and great mixed (8.7/10); that being said, just because (like most things) it tasted great with fresh lime juice and simple syrup, I certainly wouldn’t slot this as a “mixing rum”. An interesting point of comparison for this expression is the Habitation Velier Forsyths WP 2005, which also contains the WPL mark, but was distilled a year earlier and aged for two years less. They’re both incredible pours, and along most axes quite similar, but the 2005 seems to be a little livelier and balances the well integrated oak with the fresh fruit that made me fall in love with Worthy Park in the first place a bit better. The 2006 hews a little more “classically handsome”, leaning more into the cask and striving for a more clear cut definition of excellent—which it meets with flying colors.

 

The superficial: The bottle is nice and sturdy, with a large wooden cap and natural cork stopper. There’s something about the texture of the label that feels a bit thin and cheap, and personally the label design somehow feels both busy and uninteresting. I wish the bottle did a better job of signaling how special the distilate inside is.

Minimum Age

12 years

ABV

56%

Volume

750mL

Refractometer

Price Acquired

$149.00
Neat Rating: 8.5
Mixer Rating:8.7
Presentation Rating:7.0
Personal Rating:8.5

Overall Rating:

8.5/10
Rating Notes:
Tags: