On paper, Neisson’s “Vieux Par Neisson” is an interesting doppelganger of their more widely distributed Reserve Speciale: they’re both vieux, carrying at least 3 years of age. They’re also only a few points of proof apart (45% vs the Reserve’s 42%). But looking at the bottle they’re clearly positioned differently; while both cutting a rectangular profile, Par Neisson is only 750ml compared to the Reserve’s liter, and Par Neisson in almost all ways just feels classier. Between a really nicely lacquered wooden cork stopper and an embossed matte and metallic label Par Neisson is like Reserve’s twin who got sent to a fancy boarding school.

We measured a density of 0.937g/cc and a refractive of 1.3573, indicating no additives, and in line with the requirements for the Martinique Rhum Agricole AOC.

On the nose Vieux Par Neisson is quite warm. There’s oak, butterscotch, and a medley of deep sugars. There’s fruitiness, but it’s a broader profile than just apple. On the palate the oak is center stage, joined by some cherry heering, and more specific apple notes. The finish is moderate, with an herbaceousness and baking spice mix.

In our blind taste test we gave it a 7.8/10 as a neat sipper, and 7.9/10 as a mixer. This is pretty fascinating, because this was our highest raw neat rating of any Agricole in our line up, but it’s also tied for the lowest score as a mixer. The moral of the story is clear: don’t waste this one in a ti’ punch. Overall this is a pretty tasty package—in many ways it’s what I wish the Reserve Speciale was (sibling rivalry intensifies?).

The Superficial: As already called out, this is a really nice, premium feeling bottle. The label and direct glass printing look great, and the heavily finished wooden and cork stopper is one of the best I’ve seen.

In this recent round of Agricole reviews Neisson came out swinging with their Elevé Sous Bois expression, so now with their Vieux Reserve Speciale bottling we ask the classic question: more age, more better?

We measured a density of 0.944g/cc and a refractive index of 1.3574, indicating no additives, and in line with the requirements for the Martinique Rhum Agricole AOC.

On the nose Reserve Speciale is fairly middle-of-the-road for an aged agricole: apple peel and dusty grassiness. There’s a bit of a cocoa note that’s a little distinct. On the palate it’s much of the same, with apple, grass and the introduction of some stone fruit. The finish is relatively light befitting its 42% ABV, and sticks to general warm spice notes, but further specifies the stone fruit as cherry.

In our blind taste test we thought it was good neat (7.2/10) and great mixed (8.1/10). All in all this is a solid, if understated, rum from Neisson, but it’s hard to know where it fits in a rum collection or home bar. It’s not particularly distinct, and in the category of “slightly more premium vieux agricole” it’s got loads of competition. If you were going to pick up one bottle from Neisson, I would sooner recommend the Elevé Sous Bois, which I suppose answers the question: more age, not always more better.

The Superficial: This bottle shares a lot with the Elevé Sous Bois bottling: the rectangular profile, the screw cap top, and the cute boat illustration. With the exception of the late item there, all of these work less well with the lower proof, higher price point Reserve. As a more premium offering you’re less likely to want 4 of them stacked in a row, and at its price point you’d really like to see a cork stopper. On top of all that, compared to the ESB’s matte finish, the glossy finish on the label ironically looks and feels kind of cheap.