Rum Runner Labs

HSE VSOP Martinique Rhum Agricole

HSE VSOP Martinique Rhum Agricole

HSE VSOP Martinique Rhum Agricole

7.9/10

7.6/10

Neat Rating

8.2/10

Mixer Rating

Good

Value at $39.96

Habitation Saint-Étienne (HSE) is a Martinique distillery that doesn’t see many of its bottles end up on US shelves; in fact, while their lineup boasts a diversity of blancs, aged agricoles, and a variety of cask finishes, the VSOP was their only expression I was able to source for our big aged agricole tasting.

While the origin story of the HSE brand is often dated back to 1882, the year a preexisting sugar refinery “La Maguée” (which is apparently French for “La Maugée”) was sold to Amédée Aubéry, the first owner to distill at the estate, however there wasn’t any rum being produced there until the following year. Amédée kept at it until after the turn of the century in 1909 when the distillery changed hands to the Simonnet family. The distillery continued to produce rum until 1988, when it ceased operation. The bottle we’re reviewing today was actually distilled at Distillerie du Simon, which picked up the brand, and the original distillery in 1994. So let’s get back to the bottle.

We measured a density of 0.939/cc and a refractive index of 1.3569, indicating no additives, and in line with the requirements for the Martinique Rhum Agricole AOC.

HSE VSOP is fruity on the nose, maybe one of the fruitiest agricoles in the lineup. We’re mostly talking apple and apricot, but there’s a touch of grape must in there as well. There’s also a nice vanilla note, and some typical agricole grassiness. The palate is quite sweet, but the apple-vanilla sweetness is counterbalanced by a distinct pepperiness. The finish is about what you’d expect at 45% ABV, bringing out a bit more of the wood than just pepper; nothing crazy, but pleasant and balanced.

In our blind taste test we thought it was good as a neat sipper (7.6/10) and great as a mixer (8.2/10). A lot of the agricoles we’ve tasted have fallen into one of a couples niches: approachable enough to be someone’s first agricole, a solid cocktail workhorse, or an interesting enough flavor bomb to hold the attention of nerds. The interesting thing about HSE VSOP is that it manages to do all of those things pretty well. I wouldn’t be afraid to share this with a friend new to rum, it performs great in a 1944-style Mai Tai, and it’s got enough complexity to be worth nosing in a snifter.

The Superficial: A solid bottle; while the label design isn’t my favorite, the wooden stopper an natural cork make popping this one open fun.

Minimum Age

4 years

ABV

45%

Volume

750mL

Refractometer

1.3569

Price Acquired

$39.96
Neat Rating: 7.6
Mixer Rating:8.2
Presentation Rating:7.0
Personal Rating:8.0

Overall Rating:

7.9/10
Rating Notes:
Tags:  
Baie des Tresors Fruit of the Rains

Baie des Tresors Fruit of the Rains

Baie des Tresors Fruit of the Rains

7.7/10

7.2/10

Neat Rating

8.0/10

Mixer Rating

Okay

Value at $75.99

I generally try to make a point of only talking about the physical bottle a rum comes in as a postscript (don’t judge a book by its cover, right?) but in the case of Baie Des Tresors’ current lineup this is particularly hard, because they might be the nicest bottles I’ve ever hefted. There’s detailing in the glass that’s reminiscent of elevation map contour lines, already clueing you into the importance of geography for this rum. The label is thick and matte, and while it has all the information you would expect (including a compelling 50% ABV), a slip wrapped around the neck gives additional details you didn’t except, that are nonetheless cool to have. In Fruit of the Rains’ case this include the fact that the cane for this rum was grown in the humid Dufferet plot. All this is to say, as a transparency nerd and lover of nice bottles, Baie des Tresors is pressing all the right buttons for me with the presentation. But what about the juice inside?

We measured a density of 0.929g/cc and a refractive index of 1.3588, indicating no additives, and in line with the requirements for the Martinique Rhum Agricole AOC.

On the nose Fruit of the Rains is anything but simple. The first impressions are that of a fresh, grassy, classic agricole battling it out with some deeper, more sweet, almost creamy butter notes. The palate continues this point-counterpoint: there’s a lot of green and vegetaility, but then a bit of buttered popcorn. There’s also a medicinal cherry dimension that pokes its head out from time to time. For how much is going on from nose to palate, and considering it’s proof, the finish is surprisingly light. It leans more towards the light and fresh side (looks like grassy wins the fight) and peters out into a bit of an oaky ginger residue.

In our blind taste test we thought it was good as a neat sipper (7.2/10) and great as a mixer (8.0/10). Numerically this puts Fruit of the Rains somewhere near the middle of the pack, but this does the rum a disservice. This expression may have been the single most interesting agricole we tasted in our lineup, but it is decidedly not for everyone, and in some cases not for the person who loved it yesterday. It’s complex, chewy, and has a decent bit of agricole funk to it. If you’re a fan of personality driven aged agricoles, I would absolutely recommend Fruit of the Rains, but if that doesn’t sound like you, you might want to work your way up to it.

The Superficial: Again, very cool bottle. Has an awesome heft to it, suitable labeling, fantastic glass detailing, and a synthetic cork and wooden stopper that’s a joy to plop off.

Minimum Age

1.08 years

ABV

50%

Volume

700mL

Refractometer

1.3588

Price Acquired

$75.99
Neat Rating: 7.2
Mixer Rating:8.0
Presentation Rating:9.0
Personal Rating:7.5

Overall Rating:

7.7/10
Rating Notes:
Tags: