Rum Runner Labs

I Did a Blind Taste Test With 16 Aged Jamaican Rums; These Were My Favorites

I Did a Blind Taste Test With 16 Aged Jamaican Rums; These Were My Favorites

I Did a Blind Taste Test With 16 Aged Jamaican Rums; These Were My Favorites

A horizontal roundup of all the zero proof rums we tried.

The Premise

There may be no rum origin more quintessential than Jamaica. Known for the fresh, fruity and funky flavors produced by long fermentations and pot still distillation, Jamaican rum holds a special place in many spirit enthusiasts’ hearts, including my own. In fact, the plurality of rum in my liquor cabinet is from Jamaica. There’s something about the complex, ester forward profile that makes many Jamaican rums not only indispensable cocktail ingredients, but also compelling tipples to be sipped neat.

While there are a number of limited run vintage bottlings that are easy to swoon over, (Appleton Hearts, Hampden Great House, Jamaican installments of Habitation Velier, I could go on) here I was interested in lining up all the standard release aged Jamaican rums I could get my hands on, and seeing how they stack up. Specifically, I limited myself to rums that have some, but no more than 8 years of age. Functionally this excluded Appleton 12, 15 and 21, but not much else.

The System

You can read more about our review system here, but the general idea is that we (my partner and I) tasted all of these rums blind, both neat in a Glencairn, then mixed as a daiquiri. We recorded tasting notes and ratings without knowing what the rum was, then later I rated each expression on its presentation (a nice looking bottle isn’t everything, but it certainly is, well, nice) and transparency, culminating in an unblind review where I get to consider all these factors, as well as how the rum stacks up to the field. The final ranking is determined by an average of the blind neat rating, blind mixed rating, presentation, transparency, and the unblinded review. If that all sounds a bit convoluted, it is; but it’s fun : ) Without further ado, here are all the rums we tasted, in order:

Coruba Jamaica Rum

This pot column blend from J. Wray & Nephew gave us strong notes molasses and chocolate, with hints of banana, grape, wood, brown sugar, and baking spice. We thought it was decent as a neat sipper (6.4/10) and pretty good as a mixer (7.5/10).

Overall Score

6.2/10

Navy Bay Rum

This molasses pot column blend from an unknown Jamaican distillery gave us notes of solvent and pineapple, with hints of banana, brown sugar, tea, and oak. We thought it was pretty good as a neat sipper (7.2/10) and great as a mixer (8.5/10).

Overall Score

6.3/10

Myers’s Original Dark Rum

This pot column blend from multiple Jamaican distilleries gave us notes of banana and baking spice, with hints of chocolate, pie crust, coffee, and rubber. We thought it was okay as a neat sipper (6.7/10) but great as a mixer (8.6/10).

Overall Score

6.6/10

Smuggler’s Reserve Jamaica

This pot column blend from multiple Jamaican distilleries gave us notes of tropical fruit and butterscotch, with subtler hints of solvent, strawberry, pineapple, coconut, and baking spice. We thought it was pretty good as a neat sipper (7.0/10) and great as a mixer (8.1/10).

Overall Score

6.7/10

Blackwell Fine Jamaican Rum

This pot column blend from Appleton Estate in Jamaica gave us strong notes of caramel and chocolate, with hints of vanilla, brown sugar, ethanol, bitterness, and molasses. We thought it was okay as a neat sipper (6.8/10) and pretty good as a mixer (7.8/10).

Overall Score

6.8/10

Hamilton Jamaican Pot Still Blonde Rum

This young, pot still rum distilled by Worthy Park gave us notes of overripe banana with hints of butter, pear, flower shop, cinnamon, and ginger. We thought it was okay as a neat sipper (6.7/10) and pretty good as a mixer (7.4/10).

Overall Score

6.8/10

Appleton Estate Signature

This pot column blend from Appleton Estate in Jamaican gave us strong notes of brown sugar and wood, with subtler hints of caramel, cinnamon, pineapple, orange peel and glue. We thought it was okay as a neat sipper (6.5/10) and great as a mixer (8.5/10).

Overall Score

6.9/10

Cane Island Jamaica Rum

This pot column blend from multiple distilleries in Jamaica gave us notes of molasses and solvent, with subtler hints of pineapple, green apple, caramel, banana bread and vanilla. We thought it was okay as a neat sipper (6.9/10) and great as a mixer (8.0/10).

Overall Score

6.9/10

Myers’s Rum Single Barrel

This molasses based pot column blend from multiple Jamaican distilleries gave us notes of spices and toasted sugar, with hints of cola, banana, maple, pepper and coffee. We thought it was pretty good as a neat sipper (7.3/10) and great as a mixer (8.3/10).

Overall Score

7.0/10

Plantation Jamaican Rum Xaymaca Special Dry

This pot still rum from multiple Jamaican distilleries gave us strong notes of solvent and smoke, with hints of caramel, banana, brine, ginger and medicine. We thought it was pretty good as a neat sipper (7.3/10) and pretty good as a mixer (7.7/10).

Overall Score

7.2/10

RumBar Gold

This pot still rum from Worthy Park in Jamaica gave us strong notes of banana, with subtler hints of cereal, apple, varnish, allspice, coconut, toffee, and oak. We thought it was good as a neat sipper (7.3/10) and great as a mixer (8.1/10).

Overall Score

7.3/10

Doctor Bird

This pot still rum distilled at Worthy Park in Jamaica and finished in Moscatel casks in Michigan gave us note of overripe banana and pineapple. We thought it was good as a neat sipper (7.0/10) and even better as a mixer (7.9/10).

Overall Score

7.4/10

Appleton Estate Reserve 8

This molasses based pot column blend from Appleton Estate gave us notes of oak and toasted sugar, with notes of caramel, molasses, botanicals, orange peel, cinnamon, and vanilla. This was one of our favorites, and we thought it was pretty good as a neat sipper (7.3/10) and great as a mixer (8.4/10).

Overall Score

7.5/10

Smith & Cross Traditional Jamaica Rum

This iconic pot still rum from multiple Jamaican distilleries gave us strong notes of pineapple and solvent, with subtler hints of acetic acid, berry, smoke, banana, rubber, flower, and ginger. We thought it was pretty good as a neat sipper (7.8/10) and great as a mixer (8.9/10).

Overall Score

7.8/10

Worthy Park 109

This pot still rum from Worthy Park Estate in Jamaica gave us strong notes of toasted sugar and banana, with subtler hints of oak, orange, pineapple, allspice, and vanilla. We thought it was good as a neat sipper (7.8/10) and great as a mixer (8.1/10).

Overall Score

7.9/10

Hampden Estate Single Jamaican Rum 8

This molasses based pot still rum from Hampden Estate gave us notes of pineapple, oak and solvent, with hints of coconut, banana, pepper, ginger, mango and dried stone fruit. We thought it was great as a neat sipper (8.1/10) and even better as a mixer (8.6/10).

Overall Score

8.1/10

By the Numbers

Because of course we need a little data analysis. Our average bottle cost around $31, our average rating was 7.0, and our average minimum age was 1.6 years (though this is pulled down by rums without an age statement). Our most expensive rum, Hampden 8, clocked in at $59.99, and our least expensive, Navy Bay cost only $19.99. Unsurprisingly there’s a positive relationship between price and overall rating, but what is interesting is how weak the correlation is at the very high end of the quality spectrum; while our highest rated rum, Hampden 8, was also our most expensive, our second highest rated rum, Worthy Park 109 was, at $27.99, cheaper than our average bottle.

I was also curious to see how our blind ratings stacked up to the aggregated community rating on RumX. In general our ratings were pretty similar; the average Rum X score was 7.1, and the average blind neat score we assigned was 7.0. Our scores were positively correlated, with an R2 of 0.48. The most “underrated rum” (i.e., the rum where our blind score exceeded the RumX rating the most) was Myers’s Original Dark Rum, and the most “overrated rum” was Doctor Bird (this kind of hurts to see, because I think Doctor Bird is a really delightful rum and don’t think it’s overrated consciously, but hey, the blind data is what it is).

Standouts and Recommendations

In all honesty, there are very few rums on this list you could go wrong with. Most of them are both flavorful and approachable. Some provide better value for money, and many serve particular roles, but I’d particularly recommend everything that clocked in at 7.5 and above.

Appleton Estate Reserve 8 is an overall great expression from Appleton, and a really gentle introduction to Jamaican Rum. While it may not fully deliver Jamaican fruity-funkiness, it’s a great rum to sip neat, or an all-around team player in a cocktail.

Smith & Cross Traditional Jamaica Rum is an icon of the rum world, and for good reason. It’s insanely flavorful, and while it may be a bit aggressive to sip neat for some, any cocktail recipe that calls for “Aged Jamaican Rum” or “Gold Jamaican Rum” should be honored to be instantiated with Smith & Cross.

Worthy Park 109 may have been the rum that, out of the entire lineup, delighted me the most. It’s simultaneously deeply rich and boldly fruity. It’s not really positioned as an “elevated” sipping spirit, but specifically in the “black rum” category where you’re looking for deep color and a bit of chewiness, WP 109 is 100% the way to go. The cherry on top is that it’s an incredibly good deal.

Hampden Estate Single Jamaican Rum 8 has all of the flavor of Smith & Cross, and all of the refinement and gentility of Appleton Estate Reserve 8. The main drawback is that (at least in my market in Seattle) it’s pretty damn expensive, but beyond that I have no notes. It’s bold, fruity, complex, and a stellar guest in any snifter or cocktail.

We Tasted 9 Zero Proof Rums Blind; Here’s What We Reccomend.

We Tasted 9 Zero Proof Rums Blind; Here’s What We Reccomend.

We Tasted 9 Zero Proof Rums Blind; Here’s What We Reccomend.

A horizontal roundup of all the zero proof rums we tried.

Why did we do this?

In a word: Dry January. We think it’s a great idea to reset your alcohol tolerance and to give your palate a bit of a break. But alas we’re creatures of habit, and there’s something about sipping a neat pour after work or mixing up a Mai Tai on a weekend that we didn’t want to give up.

The allure of zero proof rums: all of the fun, and none of the hangover! So we cast a wide net to test 9 zero proof rums to see if an alcohol-free alternative would help us stay sober, or just remind us that we’re missing out this month.

We used our standard testing procedure, though we had to adjust a few parameters to make it work for zero proof rums; primarily in the transparency category: most of the information we want to know about regular rums (fermentation time, distillation method) just doesn’t apply to alcohol free alternatives. So instead we were generous with our transparency ratings. One perk of zero proof rums: they have nutritional information! Although most of the important ingredients fall under the all-mighty “natural flavoring” label. In general, we gave points for specifically naming where the product was made, and deducted points for leaving any important information (like if the product is meant to be diluted before consumption) off the bottle.

Are Zero Proof Rums Even a Good Idea?

Before we get into it, I want to call out a few points:

1. None of these really taste like rum. In the US, rum must legally be at least 40% alcohol by volume. These zero proof rums, by definition, are 0% alcohol (actually, a few of them like Strykk and Lyre’s have small amounts, but all are under 1%). While I think many of them do an admirable job of evoking the interesting flavors you can find in rum, none of these would pass for actual rum in a blind taste test. And I don’t think that should be the bar we hold them to.

2. There are lots of other delicious things to drink that aren’t trying to be rum. Maybe the right call is to get into soda during dry January. Or ginger beer. Or shrubs! I love this Pineapple Shrub from Liquor.com, and I think it makes a great highball. On some level, going from drinking rum in December, to drinking zero proof rum in January, is pretty lacking in imagination. That being said, I think some of the zero proof rums we tried are totally worth your time, and can make good drop-in replacements in your favorite cocktails.

Dark Rums

Dark rums seem to dominate the zero proof space; we ended up selecting six, and we could’ve added another two or three to the lineup. Two we meant to include but couldn’t get in time were ArKay Non-Alcoholic Dark Rum and Seir Hill Biscane. Of the rums we tested, more than one was pretty nasty, but several were pretty enjoyable. Here’s what we thought:

 

Crystal Barbados

This zero proof rum from Crystal gave us insanely strong notes of bubblegum and not much else. Perhaps there was a bit of peach. We thought it was pretty bad as a neat sipper (3.8/10) but okay as a mixer (6.8/10).

Overall Score

2.8/10

Monday Zero Alcohol Rum

This zero proof rum from Monday gave us strong notes of cereal and oak, with subtler hints of oak, caramel, citrus, banana, and decaf coffee. We thought it was okay as a neat sipper (5.2/10) but pretty good as a mixer (7.6/10).

Overall Score

7.8/10

Ritual Zero Proof Rum

This zero proof rum from Ritual gave us strong notes of cereal and baking spice, with subtler hints of charred apricot, oak, ginger, cinnamon and citrus. We thought it was okay as a neat sipper (4.8/10) but pretty good as a mixer (7.4/10).

Overall Score

6.9/10

Lyre’s Dark Cane Spirit

This zero proof rum from Lyre’s gave us strong notes of caramel, with subtler hints of cola, butterscotch, baking spice and mint. We thought it was pretty good as a neat sipper (7.8/10) and great as a mixer (8.9/10).

Overall Score

7.9/10

Strykk Not R*m

This zero proof rum from Strykk gave us strong notes of mint and ginger, with subtler hints of black tea, orange, vanilla, and oak. We thought it was okay as a neat sipper (5.8/10) and pretty good as a mixer (7.8/10).

Overall Score

7.5/10

270º Botanicals Non-Alcoholic Cane Beverage Dark Caribbean Blend

This zero proof rum from 270º Botanicals gave us strong notes of latex and burnt meat, with subtler hints of caramel, artificial coffee, and nondescript nut. We thought it was absolutely vile as a neat sipper (1.2/10) and really quite bad as a mixer (2.3/10).

Overall Score

2.0/10

White Rums

In general, there seem to be fewer zero-proof white rums on offer. In fact, all the white rums we tasted came from lines that also offered dark rums: Lyre’s, 270º Botanicals, and ArKay. And on some level, it makes sense: even for many rum nerds white (and/or unaged) rums are little more than a vehicle for getting alcohol into a cocktail. They don’t need any distinct flavor themselves, and most of the white rums you’re most likely to find at a supermarket are unlikely to have much (we have to call out that there are so many incredibly tasty and complex white rums, and we’re purely speaking in generalities here).

This makes a zero-proof white rum’s job quite hard: how do you make a drink that is practically water and ethanol, with no ethanol? It’s a difficult needle to thread–do too little and the rum may just taste like water. Do too much on the other hand, and you’ll end up making something putrid. We had white rums that flirted with both of these problems:

ArKay front shot

ArKay Alcohol-Free White Rum

This zero proof rum from ArKay gave us strong notes of vanilla cake and refrigerant, with subtler hints of bubblegum, cotton candy, coconut, and crayon.. We thought it was okay as a neat sipper (4.7/10) but pretty good as a mixer (5.5/10).

Overall Score

5.8/10

270º Botanicals Non-Alcoholic Cane Beverage White Caribbean Blend

This zero-proof rum from 270º Botanicals gave us strong notes of latex and pineapple, with subtler hints of bubblegum. We thought it was really quite bad as a neat sipper (2.2/10) but okay as a mixer (5.5/10).

Overall Score

4.1/10

Lyre’s White Cane Spirit

This zero-proof rum from Lyre’s gave us strong notes of pineapple and coconut, with subtler hints of butter, ginger, flowers, chile, citrus. We thought it was pretty good both as a neat sipper (7.2/10) and as a mixer (6.7/10).

Overall Score

7.1/10

Winners and Reccomendations

Dark Rums

There are several dark rums worth your time. If you’re looking for the bottle that we most thought tasted like rum (though I’m not sure that should be your goal) I’d recommend Monday, or at a lower price point and greater availability, Ritual. If you’re looking for a rum that packs a punch and will add a somatosensory kick to a cocktail, check out Strykk Not R*m. If you’re looking for something that strays a little bit further from a classic rum profile, but is absolutely delicious in a snifter or a Mai Tai, try Lyre’s Dark Cane Spirit.

If you’re interested, I would try all three (I wouldn’t recommend getting Ritual and Monday, as they’re fairly close in profile)–they all offer something different, and they’re all compelling in their own way.

White Rums

Thinks look a lot more bleak on the white rum side. While we had fewer chances at success with only 3 contenders, all of them let us down in one way or another. 270º Botanicals was only slightly better than its dark cousin and had very offputting latex notes. ArKay had an interesting burn, but on the nose and palate, it had a very artificial sweetness to it. Lyre’s was delicious neat, but it was so delicate it totally got lost in a cocktail. When push comes to shove if I were to recommend one it would probably be Lyre’s, unless you only plan on mixing and really want a kick, in which case I would recommend ArKay. But if you’re sober-curious and just looking to pick up a single bottle, I would start with a zero proof dark rum.

Best Zero Proof Rum

Lyre’s Dark Cane Spirit

Most Believable

Monday Zero Alcohol Rum

Best Burn

Strykk Not R*m