Neisson's "Vieux Par Neisson" is a sophisticated, aged rhum agricole that presents an inviting profile with prominent notes of oak, butterscotch, and a mix of deep sugars and fruit, particularly apple and cherry. While it excels as a neat sipper it's a bit wasted mixed into a drink.

On paper, Neisson’s “Vieux Par Neisson” is an interesting doppelganger of their more widely distributed Reserve Speciale: they’re both vieux, carrying at least 3 years of age. They’re also only a few points of proof apart (45% vs the Reserve’s 42%). But looking at the bottle they’re clearly positioned differently; while both cutting a rectangular profile, Par Neisson is only 750ml compared to the Reserve’s liter, and Par Neisson in almost all ways just feels classier. Between a really nicely lacquered wooden cork stopper and an embossed matte and metallic label Par Neisson is like Reserve’s twin who got sent to a fancy boarding school.

We measured a density of 0.937g/cc and a refractive of 1.3573, indicating no additives, and in line with the requirements for the Martinique Rhum Agricole AOC.

On the nose Vieux Par Neisson is quite warm. There’s oak, butterscotch, and a medley of deep sugars. There’s fruitiness, but it’s a broader profile than just apple. On the palate the oak is center stage, joined by some cherry heering, and more specific apple notes. The finish is moderate, with an herbaceousness and baking spice mix.

In our blind taste test we gave it a 7.8/10 as a neat sipper, and 7.9/10 as a mixer. This is pretty fascinating, because this was our highest raw neat rating of any Agricole in our line up, but it’s also tied for the lowest score as a mixer. The moral of the story is clear: don’t waste this one in a ti’ punch. Overall this is a pretty tasty package—in many ways it’s what I wish the Reserve Speciale was (sibling rivalry intensifies?).

The Superficial: As already called out, this is a really nice, premium feeling bottle. The label and direct glass printing look great, and the heavily finished wooden and cork stopper is one of the best I’ve seen.